Which skincare active ingredients can be mixed?

Not everything plays nice together. Here's what to layer, what to separate, and why it matters.

Skincare actives are powerful — but stack the wrong ones together and you can irritate your skin, cancel out their benefits, or both. The good news is that most of my actives are formulated to work together. Here's the guide.

What are active ingredients?

Active ingredients are the ones that actually do something to your skin — exfoliating, brightening, firming, hydrating at a cellular level. Think retinol, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, and vitamin C. They're the workhorses of any serious routine.

The combinations that work

Hyaluronic acid + retinol

One of the best pairings you can do. Retinol is powerful but can cause dryness and sensitivity — hyaluronic acid counteracts that by drawing moisture into the skin and strengthening the barrier. Apply my Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum first, then layer my Rewind Retinol Serum over the top. Use at night, twice a week to start.

Hyaluronic acid + niacinamide

Both are water-based, both suit every skin type, and together they're particularly good for dry or acne-prone skin. Niacinamide (vitamin B3) reduces pores, calms redness, and helps regulate oil production — hyaluronic acid keeps things hydrated. You'll find niacinamide in my Rewind Retinol Serum alongside the retinol, so layering that over hyaluronic acid gives you all three benefits at once.

Niacinamide + retinol

These two are so compatible that I included both in my Rewind Retinol Serum. Niacinamide strengthens the skin barrier and reduces the irritation that retinol can sometimes cause — making it the ideal supporting ingredient. Together they firm, tone, smooth, and protect.

Hyaluronic acid + peptides

Peptides signal to skin to produce more collagen, and hyaluronic acid keeps the skin plump and hydrated enough to use them effectively. My Collagen Boost Serum uses this combination to target fine lines and loss of firmness. Layer it under my Balancing Peptide Moisturiser morning and night.

AHAs + BHAs (on the body)

Glycolic acid (AHA) and salicylic acid (BHA) are a powerhouse combination for body skin — especially for KP, body acne, and ingrown hairs. AHAs work on the surface to exfoliate dead skin cells; BHAs penetrate into the pore to clear congestion. My Triple Acid Body Wash and Triple Acid Body Mist combine both alongside lactic acid for a complete acid routine you can use in and out of the shower.

The combinations to avoid (or use carefully)

Retinol + AHAs/BHAs

This is the big one. Retinol and acids (glycolic, salicylic, lactic) together can over-exfoliate the skin and cause irritation, redness, and sensitivity. Use them on separate nights — acids one night, retinol the next — rather than layering them in the same routine.

Vitamin C + AHAs

Vitamin C is most effective at a lower pH; high-strength AHAs can destabilise it. If you're using both, apply vitamin C in the morning and your AHAs at night.

Retinol + vitamin C

Both are potent actives that can irritate skin when overused. Use vitamin C in the morning and retinol at night — they work better when given their own time to do the job.

My philosophy on skincare is that simple is better, even when actives are involved. You don't need every ingredient at once — you need the right ones, used consistently.

x frank