Is salicylic or glycolic acid better for clearing acne?

Both salicylic and glycolic acid are effective at clearing acne, but they work differently and target different parts of the problem. Here's what each one does, when to use which, and why the best routine often uses both.

Why exfoliation matters for acne

Acne starts with a blocked pore. Dead skin cells, excess oil, and bacteria combine to create the congestion that leads to breakouts. Exfoliation — whether physical or chemical — clears that congestion, prevents new blockages, and speeds up the turnover of skin cells so post-acne marks fade faster.

Physical exfoliation buffs the surface. Chemical exfoliation, using acids, does something more: it dissolves the bonds between dead skin cells, getting into the pore rather than just brushing over it. That's where salicylic and glycolic come in.

Why AHAs (glycolic acid) are good for acne

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are water-soluble acids derived from natural sources. Glycolic acid comes from sugarcane, lactic acid from milk, mandelic acid from almonds. Because they're water-soluble, they work primarily on the skin's surface, breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together and encouraging them to shed.

AHAs are particularly good for:

• Surface congestion and non-inflammatory acne (blackheads, whiteheads)
• Post-acne hyperpigmentation and redness
• Dry or rough skin texture
• Keratosis pilaris

Glycolic acid has the smallest molecule of all the AHAs, which means it penetrates the skin most effectively and delivers the strongest surface exfoliation. Paired with physical exfoliation, it clears from the inside and the outside at the same time.

My Glycolic Body Scrub does exactly this: glycolic acid plus pumice, working together. Use it 2–3 times a week on acne-prone areas and follow with my Smoothing AHA Body Lotion to keep the exfoliation ticking over between scrub sessions.

Why BHAs (salicylic acid) are good for acne

Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are oil-soluble, which is what makes salicylic acid particularly suited to acne. Because it dissolves in oil rather than water, it can travel deeper into the pore, cutting through the sebum and congestion that AHAs can't reach. It also has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, which directly address two of the key drivers of inflammatory acne.

Salicylic acid is particularly good for:

• Oily and combination skin
• Blackheads and whiteheads
• Inflammatory acne (papules and pustules)
• Preventing future breakouts by keeping pores clear

My Triple Acid Body Wash includes salicylic acid alongside glycolic and lactic acid in a daily body wash — gentle enough for every shower, active enough to keep pores clear between exfoliation sessions. For targeted use on the back or shoulders, the Triple Acid Body Mist delivers salicylic alongside both AHAs in a spray you can use any time, no rinsing needed.

Can you use both together?

Yes, and for most people with acne-prone skin, using both is more effective than either alone. AHAs clear the surface and fade post-acne marks; BHAs go deeper into the pore and address the sebum and bacteria that drive breakouts. They work on different layers of the problem, which is why they complement each other well.

The easiest way to get both is a product that already contains them. My Triple Acid Body Wash and Triple Acid Body Mist include glycolic, lactic, and salicylic acid together. Or if you want the full kit, the Acid Heroes Kit has everything you need to build a complete acid routine.

A note on SPF: both AHAs and BHAs increase your skin's sensitivity to UV. If you're using them consistently, SPF 50+ every morning is not optional.

x frank